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daniel kempton
Posted: Sep 07, 2009 10:59 AM
fluid valves
Does anyone have a solution to repairing a fluid valve. I keep an extra 1 or 2 in the truck, but I was wondering has anyone had any luck on changing that inside bushing? I tried two small o-rings on it, which worked but didn't last??????
clint moore
Posted: Sep 08, 2009 10:52 AM
If you are talking about the fluid valves on a Fusion AP gun..........No.
daniel kempton
Posted: Sep 08, 2009 09:22 PM
Yeah, I'm talking about the fusion AP. The o rings work, but only for a short while. There has got to be a better solution.
Tim Tuffy
Posted: Sep 08, 2009 11:35 PM
I believe it is a 007 EPDM 90 durometer o-ring with a split nylon backup washer also 007. I can double check sizes but I think thats right.
daniel kempton
Posted: Sep 09, 2009 05:43 PM
Wow, flatland. What an answer. THANKS. Do you know where I can get some????
Tim Tuffy
Posted: Sep 09, 2009 09:25 PM
I buy mine from www.lutzsales.com but any 0-ring supplier should be able to help you. Lots of guys have found out the hard way that standard O-rings don't hold up, use the right stuff and you will be happy and leak free.
Posted: Sep 11, 2009 07:21 AM
i think spfdepot has rebuild kits for the manual valves,,,we have a few rebuilt just out in the world and they seem to be holding up...
tell him dude sent ya..lol
jimcoler

I have over 10 years of experience specifying and installing open and closed cell spray foam. I've sold my business but I'm still selling for the new owners and consulting on large and custom specific jobs. 

I've expanded my knowledge into t

Posted: Sep 22, 2009 08:58 PM
Here's an important tip to prolong the life of these valves. This is what Graco doesn't want you to hear because you won't have to buy as many repair or replacement parts for trade of your right arm.

When opening the valves, open then with ease, especially the last turn. Don't just ram it open to the very open end. Once you feel that the valve is all the way open, turn it back shut just 1/4 turn. This doesn't interfere with the fluid movement through the valve and keeps the pressure and wear and tear off your orings. Since I've started doing this, I've had much less maintenance on these valves and they last for months and months of daily use.

This comes from a scuba diving and firefighter air pack technique to open it all the way and then back closed just a little bit. This way someone will know which way to turn it and won't try to put the gorilla crack open on it when it's already open causing your orings to bind up, score and even losen the seat ends.

Hope this helps!
Jim
Posted: Sep 22, 2009 09:26 PM
you are dead on jim,,
in fact,,open 4 turns instead of 5,,,look at it with a pressure moniter,,they be open,,,
think about it,,if you hard crank open the outside faucet to water the lawn the friggin brass thingy leakes every time,,but if you open to about full and maybe back it off a bit,,,it dont leak,,and like the jimster said,,when you close it down just tighten it "2 finger tight" ,,this is brass and it is soft metal,,its about the seat,,,and should i use the the lame water faucet analogy again???i think not,,,,burma shave,,,


we have noticed the most trouble with the manual valves leaking past the stem when spraying closed cell foam and not keepin our gun condom over the valves,,we think it is the abrasive action of the cc residue that deposits on the valve stem that abrades the innerds oring assembly and after a few cycles,,it goes to poo.. and starts leakin..
we grease the valve stems,,works for a while( a few hours)we prefer to keep it covered,,via our hillbilly gun/block condom....(dont ask,,we're too busy,,do a search,,its been posted b4,,even if it didnt make sense,,,lol)

pss: the spfdepot rebuild kits work fine,,they are holding up to our abuse.

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