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Favorite drum pumps? Post New Topic | Post Reply

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Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Apr 11, 2006 01:22 PM
Favorite drum pumps?
We have used Graco for years:

1:1 resin
2:1 stainless on Iso

They are a nuisance. Every other time I come in the trailer one of the pumps is stalled out and hissing air. We rebuild them and two-three weeks later it's the same old problem. I started looking for a pump with a more solid pump cycle...

I checked with IPM. Their 2:1 (OP-232c) sounds nice, but the ceiling needs to be 90" to get the thing out of the drum.

ARO had some problems with their 2202B pumps according to Glascraft. They like the 650110c pump.

Diaphragm pumps won't work with 245fa foam. Especially in heat--the pump will cavitate as the resin boils.

What is working for youse guys? :)


gcw
Posted: Apr 16, 2006 03:47 PM
gw,,have the same luv/hate with the ipm pumps...had one blowin air out of the bottom of the piston for the entire day friday...took it out of the truck on saturday and the little pig worked just fine transtering fluids...still gonna rebuild it monday...
i think the "stick pumps" are also prone to cavitate at elevated temps,,,(and maybe more importantly..at continous duty operation...read on).. as do the diaphragm pumps...i wonder if this is the case???...have the diaphragm pumps been wrongly maligned??is it a frothing/viscosity issue (ie: the wonderful chemical properties of that marvelous 245 blowing agent)that keeps them, as well as the stick pumps from being able to "grab the fluid"...could the elevated temps in conjunction with the mechanical agitation of a drum pumps operation create a condition where the fluid becomes to "thin" makeing it difficult for the pump to move the fluid???...



..."and it foamed me right to my soul"....van morrison...
Posted: Apr 17, 2006 11:37 AM
Pumps for me are just a headache I dont need. I use pressure tanks, and never have to worry about chemical supply to my proportioner. As long as the air that pressures your supply tanks is dry . It is headache free.
Posted: Apr 18, 2006 06:59 AM
sprayfoam1,,good to see you get a chance to post again!,
how many gallons does the pressure tanks hold?
how much psi do you pressureize it to?
useing dry, compressed air?
any other info would be good...

thanx for your time...
Posted: Apr 18, 2006 05:14 PM
Foamdude
Thanks for remembering me.
200 gallon A
2-100 gallon B for switching systems.
30 psi.
Yes dry compressed air.
I have always preferred the tanks for several reasons. Thee main reason is that you can load up and spray all day and never worry about your material running out,and its less that you have to worry about on your rig. It is the way my dad started out in 74'and we never looked back. We pump the material on to the tanks with inexpensive PBL pumps that we purchased from Northern. The current pumps have been in use for 3 yrs. The A pump should of failed two years ago but is still going strong. And with the new system sounding like its giving guys problems during transport its yet another problem we dont have.
Im a happy puppy, we finally finished up our winter system- Sprayed all day and only ran the bit through chamber 1 time. YEE Haw.
The only down side I see is not being able to try out the bio based foams - as they need to be continusouly stirred during application.
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Apr 19, 2006 08:44 AM
I believe I will give ARO a try.


gcw
SprayFoamSupply.com
Posted: Apr 19, 2006 08:48 PM
Sprayfoam1,

Did you buy your tanks ready made? of did you have them fabricated for you? I am thinking about setting them up in my new rig. Were they costly? Only the .5lb and 1lb open cell biobased foams need to be continuously mixed. Our water blown, closed cell, bio-based foams don't need to be mixed and are suited well for pressure tanks.

George
Posted: Apr 22, 2006 05:16 PM
NHsprayfoam
Yes- the tanks are nothing special. We purchased them from a plumbing supply store. They are upright water holding tanks. We equipped them with the needed supply fittings and looped a clear hose up the side so we always know how much material we have. We also installed gate valves at the tanks to prevent any problems during transit and never store or travel with the tank pressurized. I would be happy to e-mail you pictures if you would like.I can also supply you with a diagram to show you how we plumbed the supply and air lines.
Thanks- for the info regarding the bio foams.
Posted: Apr 23, 2006 12:24 AM
olger,,
got to thinkin..(this oughta be good,,)maybe we are putting to much air into the 1:1's & 2:1's...we may be "burning" air motors up with excessive pressures...what do you run your 1:1 & 2:1 at? i run at 80 psi...
but if 30 psi will transfer the fluid,,
i bumped the pressures down last week with good results,,,will continue in the downward direction and see what is the lowest to pressure to work with...

sprayfoam1...what proportioner (or more important) or,, what output (gpm) are you running at with this inlet pressure?
what are the supply line dimensions from tank to proportioner?
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Apr 23, 2006 11:49 AM
110 on the Resin (1:1)
60 on the ISO (2:1)



gcw
SprayFoamSupply.com
Posted: Apr 23, 2006 08:54 PM
Foamdude,

Please email me whatever pics you have. gspanos@adelphia.net or info@nhsprayfoammagazine.com. Maybe you want to try posting them here?

Thanks,

George
Posted: Apr 27, 2006 12:39 AM
george,,
naked pix of my dog???or what pix do you want..?
i believe you should be asking sprayfoam1 for the pressure tank pix,,not me..hee hee

gcw..ran my stirrer in the 1/2 lb to the bottom of the drum today..noticed the pump fluttering at the top of the stroke and then hammering down about 1/2 of the stroke when it would hit...
observation showed that the fluid was frothy in the drum and that the pump was having trouble picking this frothy juice up...i turned the stirrer off at 1/2 drum on the next set with no fluttering or stalling of the pump...this could be the case with the 245 frothy stuff too!
maybe this is why our pumps are stalling..
...ohh and it makes me wonder...
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Apr 27, 2006 09:19 AM
Could be, Foamdude. Air compresses - fluid doesn't.



hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Posted: May 14, 2006 06:42 AM
olger,,
resurrecting the air powered hydracat....
put 2 new ipm drum pumps in the rig...
man they just stroke away without any effort...
i wonder what i am doing wrong with the old pumps..? they operate with considerable more "noise" and "effort"...
i will rebuild them,,,again...and see how they do...any rebuild advice/pearls would be appreciated...
but i'll tell ya...
$950 new pump...$250 rebuild kit...hmmmm maybe i should ebay the old ones and just keep the new ones coming and depreciateing...
any links to the "money tree"?
Ryan Rhoads
Posted: May 16, 2006 02:29 PM
I was wondering instead of messing around with pressurized tanks and the whole bit what about building a tank the gravity feeds to a drum pump and thus reducing the suction tube of the drum pump itself, so in essence the drum pump is gravity. I think this would reduce some of the work the drum pump has to do thus prolonging it's life and you could utilize diaphram pumps with the more viscous materials without the promblems associated with priming them and not getting a true 1:1 mixture. What do you guys think
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: May 19, 2006 04:01 PM
We spray too many different foams to dedicate a tank to any particular system. In a year's time, perhaps we will consider dedicated spray units.


gcw
Posted: May 20, 2006 07:09 AM
i have seen some diagrams representing gravity fed systems...in the system you describe it would seem somewhat redundant as the transfer pump is still working...and if it is operating moveing fluid it is still working...so i question whether this would reduce wear on the pumps...
diaphragm pumps work well,,,but not with the new 245 POS frothing crap we have to work with now...
if priming is difficult due to viscosity,,,try heating the material in the drum first...
also,,,create a y/tee valve at the pumps discharge port..use this port to prime the pump...so you dont need the pump to push/prime thru 200+ foot of hose too. once the pump is primed close the valve and continue to push the fluid through the hose to complete the process...this works for the airless too..
Posted: May 20, 2006 07:17 AM
start with smaller chambers till you get the hang of "patterning" your set up and can manage the equipment...
i shoot most of the time with a 7070 chamber into sidewall cavities..
use an 8686 on a slab on grade applications and attic lids...talk about output!
use what works for you....and what your equipment will support...
Posted: May 20, 2006 07:27 AM
previous post should be (and is now) in the OUTPUT topic,,,,
need more coffee
sorry guys

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