Q&A Forums
spray technique Post New Topic | Post Reply
| Author | Comments |
|---|---|
|
Bryan Kwater
Posted: Oct 01, 2010 03:24 PM
|
spray technique
Just out of curiosity, what spray technique do you prefer when foaming regular stud cavities? We typically picture frame the cavity, then side to side infill from top to bottom. We very rarely have stud adhesion problems doing it this way, but it does use a little more foam. I have been watching the local competition and there seems to be quite a few different ways it's being done. Obviously some look a whole lot better than others. There is one seasoned veteran who I have not seen him spray, but his work is extremely flat. There is a tendency for slight pull from studs here and there, but overall it looks pretty. On a side note, our first pass usually looks fairly smooth, but the second pass we start having larger variations. Primarily when we are installing at 3" to 4" total thickness. Does anyone have any tips on helping this? Is it worth lowering temps, etc.? Not a major issue, we are just trying to fine-tune our work. |
|
Paul Covert
Posted: Oct 19, 2010 08:57 PM
|
Through trial and error, I have settled on this method: Spray the first passes directly on the studs. If you are spraying 4 inches in a 2x6, let the outside edge of your pattern run right up the outside of the stud. This will serve as a depth reference for your final pass. Continue spraying up the sides of these initial passes, until you end up with a "v" shaped depression in the middle of the cavity. Once you have that, you can then place one final pass in that "v". By adjusting the distance of your gun and the speed of the pass, you can get a very flat finish. Also, since you covered the sides of the studs with the first pass, you do not have exposed wood that raises a red flag to picky customers. You will get some pull away, but it is minimal if your heat and your speed is right. By using this technique, I spray some beautiful foam and have minimal trimming. |
|
Posted: Nov 06, 2010 03:09 PM
|
I prefer to go first get a solid 1" pass at the top and bottom 6 " of each cavity. I then use the side to side spray technique falling just short of each stud. I follow this up with filling in the areas next to the studs (which requires quick and frequent triggering. I have been spraying for 6 years and I do can spray some pretty flat looking foam. I also find that by adjusted my pressure to about 400-450 static (about 700-1000 psi) and my temperatures as follows: Primary Heaters: 118 and Hose: 115...I can keep a nice fat spray pattern. The foam goes on as a liquid for just about a fraction of a second (is coffee colored) and then reacts. I probably loose a little yield but I find that my down time for cleaning/changing tips is considerably less (Can spray for about 45 minutes without cleaning/changing tips). |
|
Daniel X
Posted: Nov 07, 2010 11:49 PM
|
Pulling from the studs means you're putting to much foam on all at once... Anybody spraying foam professionally should know and be aware of that... |
